MC-SCOW SHOPPING SUGGESTIONS

Background:

Some potential buyers check every detail - every inch of the hull, rivet, and stitch on the sail and boat cover, etc. The list below is by no means a complete list of tests. This list is provided to help you avoid making a less than desirable purchase for your budget and to minimize any take home surprises. In general the MC is a very strong and well-made boat!!! Many of the suggestions below apply to any small sailboat and not just MC-Scows. The author does not take responsibility for your buying (or selling) decisions.

Recommended if possible:

* Inspect the boat on a boatlift - hull, boards, rigging, sail can hopefully be tested.

* Take the boat out for a sail. If you have a really good feel for boats then in about 10-15 mph look for immediate responses in the boat from wind velocity changes (good) and no hull twisting or bouncing. (This is more of an issue with the larger Scows)

* Have the owner take an extended main halyard and pull the boat on its side for a bottom review. If done on a trailer, push the boat to the opposite side of the trailer to avoid scratching the hull on the wheel as it is capsized by pulling the halyard to the side. Look for performance reducing scratches and dings on the bow and along the imaginary canoe shaped sections that run through and around the boards’ slots to the stern of the boat.

* Go to Megles.com and print out a list of MC part costs and main sails in case you wonder how much it might cost to replace (excluding your labor or someone else's).

Mast:

* Spreader Bracket - firmly attached, no bends, or strange wielding

* Stays - No wire fraying, kinks, or bends. Look closely at the crimped sections (4 on each wire - 2 ends, and at the spreader)

* Firmly Sealed At Both Ends - water that can enter the seals at the top of the mast will make righting the boat more difficult.

* Considering bringing a measuring tape. When the mast is set at 28'3.5" (Mast halyard to stern top deck edge) are the side stays (sta-master adjusters) set to the same number?. If not why? Was one side replaced? Is one triangle's (spreader-tip-to-mast-top) tension different from the other side? If yes, that is not fast and in extreme cases it is not safe either.

Sail:

* Vertical Bolt Rope - will often shrink over time. Can you raise the main sail easily?

* Roach - A flapping or vibrating trailing edge of the main sail is not fast. This is often the sign of an older/used sail.

* If you have to pull the outhaul to the point that the sail passes the black band on the end of the boom to form creases in the lower shelf of the sail then the sail is really blowout. Also, pulling past the back band while racing is against MC class rules.

* Window - The fewer scratches and creases the easier it will be to see your windward telltales through the window as you sit on the leeward side in light air.

* Battens - no warping, twists, or bends, battens should fit very tightly in the batten slots

* Tape - Patches over tears in high stress areas?

* Draft - Deepest point in the sail. Forward of the middle of the sail is better in older/used sails.

* Measured - Has the sail been measured/certified?

* Sail Bag - Does the sail bag have holes in it from being dragged or from a small animal having lunch?

Rigging:

* Worn spots - areas where the lines typical meet the cleats.

* Pull the lines as far as they can go with out pulling them out of the deck/back bone. This step will allow you to check the areas that rub against internal cleats.

Trailer:

* Bring your own extra ropes to tie things down and towels/rags to prevent scratches. Is there a spare with the trailer? Should you bring one? If yes, check the size and number of boltholes required. An extra set of bearing is always nice to have, but even small trailers do not have one standard size.

* Working Lights - especially if driving back in the dark. Duct tape a flashlight with a red balloon over the flashlight to act as lights if in an emergency.

* Strange bends, rusting/welding.

* Bearings - Many MCs are used at locations that require a trailer dunking every weekend. Bearings can rust. Stop after an hour of driving and check to see how hot your bearing hubs are.

* Boards - If uncertain that the boards will remain retracted while trailering, tie a rope around the boat or across the trailer to prevent the boards from bouncing or dragging on the ground or trailer.

* Bends - Avoid rigs that have had the boom or mast bent back into shape.

Hull:

* Floatation - Does the hull have proper floatation?

* Outer + Deck - Look for extensive spider cracks, chips, holes, and soft spots where the crew and skipper sit. These are not good if found. Stick your head under the seating and cleat areas.

* Traveler - Grab the traveler and really pull on it. It needs to be firm. The traveler withstands a lot of force in heavy air and is often used to pull your body with.

* Boards - Do not test on the trailer, they may drop and dent. Also, testing on the trailer is not sufficient for a full range of motion test. The boards should go up and down easily. Pull boards vertically up and down by hand by the metal to determine if the bolt has worn its pivot axis hole wider. Check for dents, twists etc. from hitting things or bouncing on during righting. Check to see how the boards are wearing against the slots.

* Splash Guard - Is it firmly attached?

* Bailers - do they open and close without extreme pulling/pushing force?

* Gaskets - under the bailers (outside of hull) - Attached? Is the rubber rotting?

* If the boat is an old one, while sailing, see if you can look at the hull/deck side seams to see if there are any leaks where the hull meets the deck. Crawl into the bow area and check the rivets/screws into the hull for leakage.

* Mast Step Area - stand on the boat and walk around the mast step area. Make sure the desk is not soft.

* Bow Bumper Guard - Is it really firmly attached?

* Side Stay Chain Plates - it is rare to see problems, but check under the deck to see how well the side stays chain plates are attached to the deck. However rare, C-Scows tend to pop these out more often the MC's while sailing downside in a breeze.

* 1996 year and newer (could be 1997?) - Check for a certified weight sticker and attached lead under the mast - below deck with the factory tape around the weight holding bolt. If pre-1996 a recent weight measurement of the boat would be nice to see. Class weight = 420 pounds.

* Storage? - Not sure how to verify this but, a boat that has been moored for several seasons tends to pick up some water weight. How is the boat stored in the winter? - Hundreds of pounds of snow and ice on and possibly in the boat are not good for the hull.

Rudder - Scratches, strange welding, attachments points to the hull ok? There is a lot of force applied here going down wind in a blow.

Tiller Extension - Has it been bent back into shape? Could it withstand another bend? If the foam grip going to slip?

Boat Cover(s) - rips, patches, pin holes? The first major problem with covers is that the stitching goes out along the section seams. If the cover material is in good shape the cover can be re-stitched for around $150.